
Marc Jacobs and I have entered a new phase in our relationship: the tentative embrace. After years of derivative, ugly design and misogynistic provocation, my onetime nemesis has turned a corner and the grown-up thing to do is to acknowledge it. First came the Charlie Rose interview that made me realize his prolific collaboration dovetails neatly with a true generosity of spirit. Next came The New Yorker profile in which he revealed himself to be not only hilariously entertaining, if not completely meshugah, but also in possession of a very forward-thinking viewpoint of ownership — a refreshing change in such a nostalgic industry.
And then there was the collection that came down the runway Monday night. In a word: Awesome. The clothes are flattering, modest yet glamorous, and they are in possession of a distinct, progressive viewpoint that telegraphs hope in a newly earnest, sleeves-rolled-up kind of way.
A lot of fashion people are talking about evocations of 1930s glamour and YSL’s 1978 “Broadway Suit” collection. But I see Jacobs’s collection being about right now. If we get Obama into the White House — shemah yisrael — yes, there will be glamour but there will also be lots of unglamorous, get-your-hands-dirty work to do if we are to better our society in the way liberals have traditionally done. And that is what these clothes are for — especially if your name is Michelle Obama.